French drains, drain tile, downspout burial, dry creek beds and regrading across the KC metro. The fix for a yard that holds water, a low spot that never dries, and a basement that shouldn't be damp.
Which of these you need depends entirely on where the water is coming from. That's what the walkthrough is for.
Perforated pipe in a gravel trench, wrapped in fabric, pitched to daylight. Intercepts subsurface water before it reaches the spot that's staying wet.
Roof water carried well away from the foundation instead of dumping at the corner and soaking back down beside your basement wall.
A stone channel that handles heavy runoff and looks like a design feature rather than a drainage repair.
Reshaping the ground so water runs where you want it. Often the cheapest real fix, and the one most often skipped.
Shallow graded channels that move sheet flow across a property without pipe, where the grade allows it.
Trenches backfilled and compacted, sod or seed restored, spoil hauled off. The yard gets put back, not just dug up.
Standing water is a symptom. Installing a drain where the puddle is, without working out why water arrives there, is how people end up paying twice.
Water sheeting across the lawn after a storm needs grading or a swale. Water moving underground through the soil profile needs an intercepting drain at depth. They look identical once they've pooled in the same low spot, and the wrong fix does nothing. Standing in a yard during or just after rain tells you more than any amount of guessing on a dry day.
A surprising share of soggy yards and damp basements trace back to downspouts discharging a few feet from the foundation. A roof sheds a lot of water in a storm, and dropping all of it at the corner of the house saturates the soil right where you least want it. Carrying that water twenty or thirty feet out is often cheaper than any drain and solves more.
Pipe has to run downhill to an outlet — daylight at a lower grade, a swale, a street or an approved discharge point. On flat lots that's the hard constraint, and it's the first thing Jeremy checks. Anyone who quotes a drain without establishing where it terminates is selling you a trench, not a solution.
If a low spot can be filled and shaped so water leaves on its own, that's usually less money and less to fail later. Pipe silts up over decades; dirt doesn't. We'd rather regrade where regrading works and save the pipe for where it's genuinely needed.
We're landscapers, not foundation contractors. We can move water away from your house, and that solves plenty of damp-basement problems. If your issue is a cracked wall, a failed interior drain or a structural problem, we'll say so and tell you to call someone who does that work.
Where it pools, how long it stays, and whether it's tied to storms or constant. Photos during a rain are genuinely useful.
Grade, roof discharge, soil and neighboring properties. He works out where the water starts and where it can legally end up.
Scope, method and price — including where the water discharges. If a cheaper regrade solves it, that's what you'll be quoted.
Utility locates called, trench cut, pipe set and pitched, then backfilled, compacted and the lawn put back.
An Independence side yard: chronic low spot regraded and tied into a French drain.
Drag the handle, or focus it and use the left and right arrow keys.
Jeremy will work out where the water is coming from before quoting anything. Free, and you'll get an honest read on what it takes.