Paver patios, walkways, seat walls, steps and retaining walls across the KC metro. Base depth and compaction are what keep it flat through Missouri freeze-thaw — and they're the first thing a cheap quote cuts.
Everything below gets the same base treatment. The visible material changes; what's underneath doesn't.
Laid on a compacted aggregate base with proper edge restraint, pitched to shed water away from the house rather than toward it.
Front walks, connecting paths, steps and landings sized so the rise stays consistent underfoot instead of one odd step at the top.
Block walls built with base course below grade, backfill drainage and geogrid where the height and load call for it.
Low walls that define a space and give you seating without hauling chairs out. Capped and finished to match the patio.
Excavation to depth, aggregate placed in lifts and compacted between each one. The unglamorous half, and the half that decides the outcome.
Spoil, offcuts and pallets leave with us. Joints swept and the surface left ready to use.
A paver patio is only as good as what's beneath it. Almost every failure traces back to the same handful of shortcuts, and none of them are visible on the day the job finishes.
Missouri goes through repeated freeze-thaw cycles, and water trapped in the soil under a patio expands every time it freezes. A properly excavated and compacted aggregate base gives that water somewhere to drain and gives the pavers a stable platform. Set pavers on a couple of inches of sand over dirt and you'll see movement by the second winter.
Dumping the full base depth and running a plate compactor over the top only compacts the upper few inches. The material underneath stays loose and settles later, which is what produces those low spots that hold water. Base has to go in in layers with compaction between each one. It's slower and it's the difference.
Pavers push outward under foot and vehicle traffic. Without a proper restraint along the perimeter, the outer courses migrate and the joints open up — that widening gap around the edge of an older patio is almost always a missing or failed restraint.
A patio should fall gently away from the foundation so rain runs off rather than pooling against your house. It's a small slope you won't notice walking on it, and getting it wrong turns a patio into a drainage problem. Where the grade fights us, the honest answer is that drainage work comes first.
A retaining wall isn't just stacked block. It needs a base course set below grade, drainage aggregate behind it and a way for water to escape, because saturated soil behind a wall is enormously heavier than dry soil. Walls that lean or bulge are usually failing from water pressure, not from the block.
Tall walls and walls carrying structural load can require engineering and permits. If your project crosses that line, we'll tell you at the estimate rather than build something we shouldn't.
Jeremy looks at grade, drainage, access for equipment and what you actually want to use the area for.
Shape, size and paver or block selection. You see the plan and the material before anything is ordered.
Scope, materials and price in writing, including base depth. If we hit something buried, you hear about it before we continue.
Locates called, base built in lifts, pavers set, edges restrained and joints swept. Site cleaned before we leave.
A Grain Valley back yard: unused slope regraded and built into a paver patio with a seat wall.
Drag the handle, or focus it and use the left and right arrow keys.
Jeremy will walk the space, check the grade, and give you a real number with the base depth spelled out.